21 April 2007

The Iguazu Waterfalls (Argentina and Brazil)

View all photos from the Iguazu waterfalls: http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0AcNmzVq5YsWLFpA


Some things are impossible to describe with words or photographs; Iguazu is one of them. The are so big, powerful, spectacualar, thundering, manyfold, mysterious, majestic and awesome that words or images can only attempt to capture a glimpse of what a visitor can percieve standing at its edge. I will try nevertheless.

Iguazu is not one single waterflall but a system consisting of about 270 falls along 2.7 kilometres of the Iguazu River. Some of the individual falls are up to 82 metres in height. The highlight of the falls is the Garganta del Diablo or Devil's Throat, a U-shaped 150-metre-wide and 700-metre-long cliff and marks the border between Argentina and Brazil.












Adios Argentina

View all photos from Buenos Aires, Argentina: http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0AcNmzVq5YsWLFhg


It was with mixed feelings and a little over 2 months after having arrived that I said adios to Argentina crossing the border at Iguazu into Brazil. Any reflection back upon my time spent in the country of tango, mate, asados & red wine and its amazing people can only be described as incredible. The experience had begun in Buenos Aires with a few days of preparation for the motorcycle trip followed by a 50 day journey through the south and center of the country following the Atlantic Ocean south 3500km until the southernmost city of the world, then westward to the southern beginnings of Andes, then tracing the spine of the Andes back north for 3500km (along indescribable sceneries: desolate deserts, snow covered mountains, crystal clear lakes, green forests etc.) to Mendoza and from there back eastward to Buenos Aires (via Cordaba and Rosario).

Being blessed with a flexible schedule I was able to enjoy amazing Buenos Aires for about 10 days before continuing on northward to Brazil and altogether it was my 3rd time to Buenos Aires I fell in love with it as if it had been the first time: most I enjoyed the diversity and distinct nature of the various neighborhoods each offering its own blend of architecture, culture, restaurants, cafes, parks and thus attracts a different crowd of people; a city great to explore by foot and almost more so than New York City, a city that does not sleep.

Gazing over the breathtaking waterfalls of Iguazu, filling my ears with thunder, my skin with goose bumps and my hair with fine moisture, the time had come to continue my trip to Brazil and said good bye to Argentina. I want to close once again by saying thank you to Argentina and all the people that have impacted and helped me have the unforgettable experience I had: Thank you!












04 April 2007

The Motorcycle Diaries: Postscript

View all photos from the second part of the Motorcycle Diaries (Ushuaia back to Buenos Aires, Argentina): http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0AcNmzVq5YsWLFaA

Here is the link again to the photos from the first part of the Motorcycle Diaries (Buenos Aires to Ushuaia, Argentina): http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0AcNmzVq5YsWLFLA


I am back in Buenos Aires, safe and sound after a spectacular 10000 kilometer and 50 day adventure through the south and center of Argentina. While the past days have been quite and restful the scenes of the trip keep passing through my mind like a movie featuring its highlights: the never ending vastness of the pampa, the desolate scenery of Argentina’s south where barely a bush grows, huge blocks of ice crashing 50m deep into the water as the Glacier Moreno pushes forward with all its might, the snow caped mountains of the Andes, crystal clear mountain lakes, untouched forests and serene hikes, all together some of the most beautiful nature I have seen. Although driving through them is somewhat stressful, Argentina is home to amazing cities (Mendoza, Cordoba, Rosario and of course Buenos Aires) filled with culture, life, pleasant atmosphere, great food and wine and a fun night life. Hopefully these images will continue to fill my dreams and stories for many years to come because this motorcycle journey has not only been a highlight of this trip through Latin America if not one of the most exciting adventures of my life.

Being back in Buenos Aires, I am feeling incredible gratitude for this beautiful trip: for all my experiences, encounters and the unbelievable luck I was blessed with so many times. Let me say thank you to everybody that has helped me make this trip a reality and all the wonderful people I met along the way and supported me: Thank you!








02 April 2007

The Motorcycle Diaries: La Quinceañera

La Quinceañera describes a special event in the life of a Latin American girl. It is the day she turns 15 which symbolizes her admission into womanhood and is celebrated on a large scale. Since my motorcycle Morena is also 15 years of age I am starting to wonder if I should attribute her rambunctious behavior to her teenage years or if all motorcycles are as high maintenance and similarly compulsive.

As you recall on the first day she lit herself on fire (an event I will certainly never forget) burning her right side (along with some luggage), then there was the loose mirror incidence as well as her insatiable thirst for gasoline and oil. The fact that the Argentineans did not let her cross the border to Chile did not go over well with an emotional teenage girl. Upon return from Fireland she started refusing to go into first gear (specifically the first gear would register without problems but the engine died immediately). Then to my surprise I found out that the rear tire was not only losing its profile rapidly but was also leaking air. The next sign of teenage rebellion was a leak in the gas tank (which thanks to a saving angel I noticed only moments before leaving El Chaltén to embark on a 1000km journey on Highway 40 without mechanic and 350km without gas station).

The constant vibration (especially on dirt and gravel roads) is extremely hard not only on the driver but more so on the motorcycle and has the consequence of loosening everything that is not absolutely tight. One day I lost my blinker (it simply fell off) because over time the screw holding it in place had fallen off. Another day, I almost dropped my luggage all over the highway because the screws supporting it had either fallen out or loosened. Fortunately in both instances I was very lucky and all damage was avoided. The lesson learned was that before embarking on my daily trips I would inspect the motorcycle and tighten all obvious loose screws (and in case the screw had already been lost, attach the pieces with duck tape).

This story would not be complete without mentioning the crash in National Park Los Alceres costing me a few grey hairs and the motorcycle an extended trip to the mechanic. It served as a valuable reminder how dangerous motorcycles are and how quickly and unexpectedly a beautiful afternoon can turn into a precarious situation.

Then there were other less dangerous but nevertheless time consuming disruptions such as the mornings in the mountains when due to cold temperatures the motorcycle would not start and I had to push it up and down hills trying to start it. Not to forget the three incidences with elevated engine temperature ( 1) stones in radiator ventilator, 2) no cooling water, 3) bent front fender), which theoretically would have burned up the engine but once again I was lucky enough to detect the problem right away.

These are just some of the problems incurred along the way but literally something happened to the motorcycle just about every day on the trip that required some sort of attention. At first this surprised me and I kept waiting for the day were nothing would happen until I started to accept the fact that this was “normal” and was part of the adventure.

The only tools I carried during the journey was a pocket knife and duck tape and was able to resolve all problems that way (speak about being lucky). One time along the way, I came across two English bikers who were carrying with them over 50kg of tools and spare parts. Needless to say many fellow bikers thought I was crazy, first of all for embarking on the trip alone (without any experience of riding motorcycles) and secondly without any tools (for some reason for them the duck tape did not qualify as a tool). But I had learned in Cuba that necessity is the mother of inventions and was able to invent a solution to all problems incurred along the way (at least a temporary one until the next mechanic).

For all the beautiful moments and benefits of traveling with a motorcycle, it is definitely higher maintenance than putting your backpack into the luggage compartment of a bus, reclining your seat and talking a nap while being driven to your destination. But I did not choose this trip looking for a relaxing ride in the back of a bus, I wanted to have an adventure, challenge my self and expand my horizon. Thanks be to Morena (my faithful motorcycle) and all the people and places encountered along the way because that is exactly what I received.




The Motorcycle Diaries: Rosario, Argentina

From the enchanted small German village of La Cumbrecita, I continued on the Rosario. The longer I am staying in Argentina the more I am falling in love with the country (the people, scenery and its cities). Rosario was no exception: located on river Paraná it offers its inhabitants (and visitors alike) a beautiful riverside walk covered with parks, cafes, museums and frequent cultural activities (e.g. public concerts). There are even beaches along the river allowing you to the refresh after a long day of sightseeing (but careful, the river has quite a bit of current and if you do not pay attention before you know it you will find yourself on the way to the Atlantic Ocean).

Rosario is filled with history (e.g. Ernesto Che Guevara’s birthplace or the first place where the Argentinean flag was hissed during the struggle for independence from Spain). There are tons things to discover wandering through the many colonial streets and various neighborhoods. Finally, Rosario is a very young city (referring to young university population) and has a smoking night life.

I have been writing about the advantages of traveling on a motorcycle compared to other modes of transportation (especially busses which I had been using prior to my motorcycle adventures). Well, when it comes to navigating through a big unknown city, a motorcycle is definitely a disadvantage. Argentinean drivers show little respect on the streets for their fellow drivers as well as streets signs. As such, being a stranger to a new place trying to orient myself in a new big city, I constantly had to watch out for traffic cutting me off from all directions, not an easy and definitely not a relaxing task. But what would traveling be without the occasional challenging situation that tests and teaches you new skills. And similar to most things in life, with time and patience one can get used to even Argentinean drivers and learn how to navigate in unknown territories without getting too lost.

The morning of my last day in Rosario, I awoke to the thundering rains. I had planned to leave after breakfast completing the last stretch (300 km) of the Motorcycle Diaries. Whenever possible I try to avoid riding in even slight rain so leaving in heavy rain was definitely out of the question. But the rains continued throughout the day, occasionally slowing but then recommencing. In the late afternoon (despite continuing drizzle and approaching nighttime) I had the distinct feeling that I should leave for Buenos Aires nonetheless. I was definitely not is a hurry and could have stayed another night which the people from the hostel were recommending and would have been safer. But something told me that it was time to go, so I packed my bags and hit the road. Fortunately, the rain soon stopped and the last part of the highway leading the Buenos Aires is lit with street lights making it easier to see.

After 10000 kilometers traveled and almost 2 months on the road, Morena and I finally returned to Buenos Aires. As if Morena remembered her way home, I found Sergio’s house in San Isidro surprisingly easy only having to ask directions once. It was an emotional moment, driving the motorcycle back though Sergio’s garage door and turning off the engine (quite possibly for the last time). Sergio and Fernando were both there to greet me – what a joyful reunion!

Several days later, scrolling through the news, Rosario and the entire region were reported to have suffered continuing heavy rains and large parts of the city were flooded and roads had been closed. Over 30000 people had been evacuated to protect them against the floods in the province surrounding Rosario. In retrospect, had I chosen to leave at the best possible moment. Had I stayed until the next day, quite possibly I would have been stuck in rain and floods for over a week.













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