Ilha Grande, Brazil

The 1 ½ hour ferry ride from Angra dos Reis to Ilha Grande was the first indicator that we were headed to a laid back place. I crossed over the “Personnel Only” chain climbing up the stairs of the ferry up to the captain’s bridge. Dressed in a stained “wife beater” (sleeveless shirt), the captain greeted me with a smile and explained that I was headed to paradise. The dangers and rush of the mainland had been left behind and life was described as filled with peace, palms and pleasure in other words paradise.

The captain did not over-promise. Ilha Grande is a nature reserve prohibiting large hotel constructions and cars on the island. There is one small settlement on all of the Ilha Grande surrounded by unspoiled nature and virgin beaches. Here we spent 4 days exploring the island, swimming, snorkeling walking through the jungle and relaxing.

Two experiences deserve further mention:
1) Paulo’s caipirinha stand, which was as improvised as the cardboard handwritten sigh alerting the by-passer to its presence. On the side of his garden fence Paulo had instituted a small kiosk consisting of a bottle of cachaca and lemon. The idea was brilliantly simple: instead of drinking at a bar why not have your friends over to your place, drink for free, have a good time in the process and sell an occasional glass to a tourist.
2) The dessert wheel barrel: in shiny glass wheel barrels, dessert salesmen would walk the streets of Ilha Grande at night. The desserts were truly spectacular: fruit and chocolate cakes of impressive proportions and amazing flavor. Needless to say a visit to the desert wheel barrel quickly became part of our evening routine.