Salvador de Bahia, Brazil

Humidity filled the air and a few sweat drops my forehead, yet it was only 7am as Julia and I made our way from the bus stop to the hostel. The beauty of the historic district Pelourinho was immediately apparent: Colonial houses, churches and spares built by the Portugues during a time when Salvador was still the capital of the colony. Since then much has changed: millions of slaves have arrived (involuntarily), Brazil accomplished its independence (peacefully) and the capital has been moved twice (first to Rio de Janeiro in 1763 then to Brasilia in 1960).

Today Salvador is the capital of the state of Bahia, arguably one of the poorer regions of Brazil. Its population consists of 85% blacks and unfortunately the black population continues to be neglected: public education and public health is terrible while the power, land and businesses remain in the hands of a few whites (who at times employ methods not far removed from those during the days of slavery to multiply their wealth). This however is not very visible to the visitor’s eyes. What is visible is the strong African influence: music is the air everywhere and the festive and joyful spirit of the people is striking. I was lucky enough to visit Salvador on the Day of Dance (all day the plazas were filled with drums, singing and dancing), but on all the other days music and dance seemed similarly prevalent. In other words, the rhythm of music and dance flows in the blood of the people of Salvador. Bahia, Brazil is also the historical cradle of Capoeira (the Brazilian martial art consisting of music, chanting, singing and amazing body control and mind-blowing moves). I had seen several displays of Capoeira previously but nothing remotely close to the quality of Salvadorian Capoeira. I am not surprised that Salvador is supposed to host the best carnival in the world, the energy here is so full of thirst for life and its pleasures; its people amerce themselves fully and more then willingly. It really seemed to me that the people of Salvador live life as if every day was their last day.