Adiós Guatemala

View all photos from Northern Guatemala: http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0AcNmzVq5YsWLCOg

After about six weeks in Guatemala it is time to bid farewell to this country that has captured my heart. But before continuing my trip to México I first have to make it out of Guatemala and my last day here was as typical of a day as can be. My plan is to leave Xela (Quetzaltanango) around midday and make it all the way to San Cristobal da las Casas, México by night. I should have known better.

I reach the bus terminal in Xela and promptly find a bus headed for the border (what good luck, I think), which eventually leaves after 30 minutes instead of the promised 5 minutes and then proceeds to drive across town for another ½ hour to gather people until the bus is full. And by full, I do not mean simply full, I mean Guatemala full. Many of you have ridden on an old U.S. school bus that is supposed to seat two people on each side of the isle. Well, we were able to fit between 6 and 9 people per row along with luggage (dead and alive). And so the trip begins.

A woman in front of me wears a sling around her shoulder and cuddled inside is a beautiful little girl. Her big curious eyes observe everything in silence (crying children do not get much sympathy) until they meet my eyes. And for a few magical moments we look into each other’s eyes: she obviously being intrigued by the “strangeness” of my face and I admiring her eyes. And then suddenly she lifts her tiny hand out of the sling and opens it and inside sits an even tinier little bird. With proud eyes and a big smile she shows me her bird, pets it and then disappears back into the sling cuddling against her mom’s back.

I turn over to my other side and notice that directly next to me a woman is breastfeeding her little baby, without shame or disguise like it is the most natural thing in the world. I agree, but continue to be surprised that in a traditional, conservative, catholic country like Guatemala breastfeeding would be displayed so openly (and I have seen it everywhere: in the markets, the side of the street, in restaurants and even one time in the middle of a conversation with me a woman pulled out her breast to feed her baby; simply anytime and anyplace the baby is hungry.

The bus stops, we are in Huehuetenango (about half way to México). “½ hour break,” announced the driver. “So much for direct service”, I think to myself and after about 1 ½ hours and after the bus has been filled again we finally depart.

Shortly before the border there is a police stop. Several officers board the bus and squeeze through the rows obviously looking for something. Several minutes later they return empty-handed and the trip resumes. My neighboring passenger explains that the police is looking of illegal immigrants (usually from Honduras) trying to make their way to México on the way to the USA. She adds that they are very easy to spot because of their different physical features (darker skin and curly hair) and different accent.

So we finally arrive after 7 hours (instead of the advertised 4 hours) and I proceed to walk towards the border. The street left and right is lined with stands. After 2 kilometers the market stands with everything on display (but mostly clothes) still continues and I decide to ask about such a big market in such a tiny border town. Not surprisingly, due to big price difference between México and Guatemala many Mexicans make this a day-trip shopping destination.

So far so good but I am still not in Mexico. I enter the immigration office (on the Guatemala side for the exit stamp) and am happy because I am the only person, that is the only person on the traveler’s side of the office. Inside about 5 immigration officers are huddled around a television watching a football game with all their attention. After 5 minutes I am told that they would be right with me. After 10 minutes one of the officers gets up (while the ball is out of bounds) takes my passport and sits back down in front of the television. After 15 minutes it is finally half time and the officer walks over to the computer trying to retrieve my information. Shortly thereafter it becomes evident why there are 5 officers required: they are all 5 standing around the computer each giving advice on how to use the system (as if I was the first person crossing the border). The half time is almost over and I start to worry I would have to wait another 45 minutes until the end of the game. But then finally the superior officer gives the green light (although the computer is still not working). He stamps my passport and I am on my way to México (at 10pm vs. my expected arrival of 6pm).

Guatemala: I will miss you; for the good and the bad, the charms and frustrations, for the character of the people and the hundreds of stories I will take with me. I feel that I have only scratched the surface of meeting this rich culture and could have easily spent a lot more time, but that is what future trips are for. I will miss much about Guatemala: The millions of children with their curious looks and mischievous smiles; the markets on the streets filled with so much live where you can find absolutely everything and have to haggle for absolutely everything (One time I ordered a glass of fresh-squeezed orange juice at the market. After the woman told me the price of 3.5 Quetzals and I agreed she looked at me astonished about my unwillingness to haggle the price lower. So she took my role and said: Ok, I will give it to you for 3 Quetzals). I will miss the patience that the people of this country exhibit and the chicken-bus rides that test this patience. And of course the beauty of nature and breathtaking scenery will long be captured in my memory as well as the chilling and steep contrast between rich and poor.

Las Pirámides: Centro de Meditación, San Marcos La Laguna, Guatemala

View all photos from Lake Atitlan: http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0AcNmzVq5YsWLCGA


Ancient legend has it that Lago Atitlán is a sacred place because the bottom of this volcano lake is home to a spiritual temple of healing, which transmits an energy so pure and tranquil that it can cure people who bathe in it or live on its shores. Surrounded by three breathtaking volcanoes, which are also worshipped by the indigenous population for their positive energy (and by tourists for their majestic appearance), Lake Atitlan has been described by many visitors as (one of) the most beautiful lakes in the world. Moreover, the climate is surprisingly pleasant for a tropical location due to the 1500 meters elevation, which also keeps most mosquitoes away. Simply, Lake Atitlan feels like a magical place all around.

It is not by coincidence that 15 years ago the shores of these waters were selected to open “Las Pirámides” (The Pyramids) a center for meditation, yoga and spiritual growth. Since then this center has seen tremendous growth, which I attribute to the powerful message that it teaches and the beauty is has created. One simply feels at peace being here. The first 7 years in its existence were spent without electricity in simple accommodations. Today there are 13 different houses for the visitors each built as a pyramid to expose its inhabitants to the healing properties of the pyramidal structure. Since the early years, two temples have been constructed as well as an administrative building, a medicinal garden, a vegetarian kitchen, a multi-lingual library, and a sauna, all of which also have a pyramid shape. Each building is carefully aligned with the four hemispheric directions. And it seems that everything about this place has been given equal attention to detail and thorough consideration.

Visitors are welcome to attend any course on a walk in basis, but more serious students are encouraged to live on the premises to get the full experience (“This is NOT a hotel” signs are on display). The cornerstone of the curriculum offered is the 4 week “Curso Lunar” (Moon course), which begins and ends on full moon. Participants meet for three daily session (Yoga 7am, Metaphysic teachings 10am and Meditation 5pm). Each of the 4 weeks has a different area of focus and covers topics such as dreams, charkas, getting in touch with your sub-consciousness, astral projection, reincarnation, life after death, astrology and tarot. The final week of the course is spent in complete silence, fasting and undergoing other detoxifying treatments. The goal of all these activities (among others) is to establish balance and tranquility on a physical, mental, emotional and spiritual level. Subsequently, students eager to dive deeper can attend the 3 months long “Sun course” offered 4 times a year.

Las Pirámides is a terrific place for people searching a gentle introduction to spirituality as well as more committed seekers eager to have a profound experience. Its physical beauty by the lake surrounded by volcanoes, the peaceful and healing energy combined with the richness of the classes offered, make this an experience of inner as well as outer growth.

Opening a Door to a New World

Las Pirámides: Centro de Meditación, San Marco La Laguna, Guatemala

The small passenger boat docks to a wooden pier in a small bay on Lake Atitlan. Besides the lush green vegetation no too much else is in sight. “San Marcos La Laguna,” announces the captain. Somewhat skeptical if this is really the right place (because it really does not look like a town) I exit the boat as the only person. But as soon as I step off the pier I know I have come to the right place. A feeling of peace and tranquility overcomes me and I have not even reached my final destination: Las Pirámides meditation center. I follow the signs along a narrow path and a few minutes later find myself surrounded by pyramids of varying sizes (from small garden pyramids used to encourage growth of medicinal plants to a huge meditation pyramid to encourage growth of the spiritual seekers that enter).

I have always enjoyed yoga and meditation and have an open mind for spiritual practices, but after only a few days here is has become painfully obvious to me how one-sided of a life I have been leading. There exists a world inside each of us more complex, surprising and fascinating than anything the physical world can offer and more importantly for most of us (myself included) it remains largely unexplored. Many of the exercises I have experienced have made me feel like a discoverer setting foot on a new unknown continent. Each of us has a physical, emotional and spiritual dimension, which has to be in balance for the entire being to be healthy and happy. However, the vast majority of our energy tends to be confined to the physical dimension because it is visible to the eye and can be explained by western science. Yet, though personal experiential experience it is equally possible to explore the esoteric side of us. And the rewards are tremendous. I have had many of my questions answered, but will walk away form this experience with far more questions that I have had on arrival (but I suspect that is to be expected when exploring a new continent). At the same time, the rewards of this journey have been immediate: my body feels healthy, cleansed and supple and my spirit feels in harmony. Each day here has been like a dream: quiet and tranquil and yet filled with activity; full of learning and experiencing; receiving and giving. Of all the discoveries I have made on this trip, the realization of the complexity of my own inner self has been the most profound.

Guatemala City, Guatemala

View all photos from Guatemala City: http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0AcNmzVq5YsWL-Y

Volcán Pacaya, Guatemala

View all photos from Volcán Pacaya: http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0AcNmzVq5YsWL8Q


Going about our busy lives it is easy to forget that the stage of this grand play is a hot ball of fire whose forces sporadically surface and leave us all breathless. Nature tends to be unpredictable so it is with an open mind that one ought to approach an ascend to a live volcano.

A steady stream of smoke escapes from Volcán Pacaya, the mountain towering tall in front of us during the 1 ½ hour bus ride from Antigua to the volcano. Upon arrival to the base of the mountain we are told that there was an eruption 3 days ago and for security reasons we should not climb all the way to the top. But we would be well compensated.

Equipped with some food and water I gradually make my way up the mountain accompanied by a group of fellow travelers and Aturo our guide. With an altitude of 2500 meters this is not one of the taller volcanoes but I can feel the elevation nevertheless.

After 1 ½ hours of walking we reach an edge and what we see on the other side is truly spectacular: Hot red lava running down the mountain! And the earth around me becomes alive: steam emitting, cackling, moving, shaking, the mountain reshapes itself. Earth so hot it becomes liquid from deep below the ground, then shoots up and upon contact with the air turns black immediately - one blob of lava pushing against the other, merciless swallowing everything that comes in its way. The heat emitting form the river of lava is immense and keeps us at a safe distance. What an awesome display of the forces of nature.

Antigua, Guatemala: Semana Santa (The Holy Easter Week)

View all photos from Semuc Champey: http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0AcNmzVq5YsWL24


For a reminder that the Catholic faith is alive and strong come to Antigua during the Easter week. Unfortunately the grandness of what is on display here during Easter week has not gone unnoticed and attracts huge tourist crowds - tripling room prices for the week (if you are lucky enough to find one) and attracting scores of pickpockets and thieves to relief these tourists of their wallets and cameras.

But it is all worth it; the display is nothing short of spectacular. The most visible aspect of Semana Santa are the processions, which occur several times a day and last from several hours up to 12 hours. Dressed in deep purple or black robes the processions make their way through the streets. Walking no faster than crawling speed and accompanied by the rhythmic beating of drums adds to the awesome and meditative atmosphere of these religious marches. The faces of many of the faithful participants are vividly moved (not infrequently crying or in deep reflection); although I did see people talk on their cell phones as well. Incense streaming from filled containers wraps the procession in a magical coat and gives a special reverence to the heavy carriage filled with religious symbology.

But there is more: colorful and flowerful alfombras (picturesque constellations of flowers) fill the streets whose inhabitants have stayed up all night working on their assembly.

Added to this, the colonial cuteness of the beautifully located Antigua surrounded by its massive volcanoes towering over this town, makes the trip worth every minute.

Encounter on the Street: Guatemala highlands between Lanquín and Semuc Champey

View all photos from Semuc Champey: http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0AcNmzVq5YsWL6I


It is afternoon and the sun has started to cast long shadows. I just spent the day bathing in the beautiful natural pools of Semuc Champey but instead of taking the bus back I decide to walk back to Lanquín. The scenery is astonishingly beautiful: lush green vegetation, steep hills and rocky mountains in the distance. But I had another motivation for talking this afternoon walk: this is an extremely remote part of Guatemala (no paved roads) and not many people speak Spanish but their indigenous dialects and I wanted to see a bit more of these people’s rural life styles.

An old man appears behind a curve walking in my direction on the other side of the street. He is dressed typically in long pants, shirt, hat and carries a long machete. We exchange greetings as he passes (Buenas tardes). I have been wondering about these strange looking plants on the side of the street for some time so I ask him if he knows what these plants are called. He stops and obviously looks at me puzzled. I repeat my question, thinking it must be my German accent he does not understand. Finally I realize that he does not speak Spanish. I point to the plant and he understands. He yells out something and before I know it his family appears from somewhere behind the thick green jungle. His wife, also dressed traditionally in a skirt and a knitted shirt, breaks off a piece of the plant and brings it to me. 5 children, I guess between 3 and 8 years old, rush towards me with curious smiles. Most of them are naked, the older ones wearing a pair of shorts or an old ragged T-shirt, the younger ones wearing nothing. Their bodies are more or less completely covered in dirt (they either had a lot of fun playing in the mud that day or have not washed in a very long time – I fear the ladder). While husband and wife try to describe this plant to me, the children stand around me in astonishment, giggling after every world I say as if it was a joke. They finally break open the fruit of the plant and rub some of the seeds against each other. I do the same, my hands turn red. I conclude that the plant is used for paint of dye. I paint a few stripes on my face, which the children find terribly funny and then bid farewell to the family I have only met 5 minutes earlier.

As I continue my walk I am deeply moved by this encounter: their poverty, their shining eyes and wide smiles, their helpfulness and their simplicity.

El Mirador, Guatemala

View all photos from El Mirador: http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0AcNmzVq5YsWLyo


The Toyota pick-up truck has been loaded with enough food and water for 9 people for 6 days. Along with the 2 drivers we are 11 (3 people in the front, 8 in the back), which would make for an interesting ride during the 3 hour trip over the bumpy pot-hole road from San Andrés to Carmelita.

We are headed to the jungle: 6 days of living, breathing pure nature. Our destination is the pyramids of “El Mirador” (the highest pyramids built in the Mayan empire). No road leads there and the only way to see this ancient Mayan treasure hidden in the middle of the jungle is to walk.

The plan: 2 days of walking through the Guatemalan jungle to reach “El Mirador,” one day there of rest and relaxation and 2 days walking back.

2 hours into the 3 hour road trip to literally the end of the last road in the country the right rear tire makes a suspicious sound. We have a flat. Here we are in the middle of nowhere with a flat tire. With modestly reduced speed we proceed. I wonder why. A few curves later we stop by the side of a small driveway and parked in this driveway is another Toyota pick-up truck of the same model. The owner greets us and with Guatemalan friendliness and immediately agrees to swap us tires (he would repair the broken one for us to pick up on the way home). 10 minutes later we are on the road again with a new tire. How could we have been any luckier?

Our journey ends in the small settlement of Carmelita (and even if we had wanted to we could not have gone further because it is the very end of the last road). Our guide’s uncle lives here and has agreed to let us spend the night. After a tasty dinner we cuddle up in our hammocks suspended in a cabaña in front of the house.

The next morning starts early. We want to reach the jungle early because the earlier hours are not only better for spotting animals but also avoid the hottest midday sun. Finally the expedition starts: 6 tourists, 3 guides, 4 mules fully loaded with lots of food and water. And we are lucky and see many kinds of animals: birds, butterfly, a poisonous snake, monkeys, spiders and a big scorpion carrying babies on its back. The jungle is beautiful: thick, green, wild, almost inpenetratable and full of noises and surprises (but yet distinctly different from the jungle along the Amazon I visited several years ago). After 6 hours of walking we reach our camp for the night; a small opening in the forest which archeologists created a few years ago while staying here for several months excavating the premises. Fortunately for us they left behind a few simple tree stumps for us to sling our hammocks.

I am hot and sweaty and decide a nice shower (jungle style) would be just perfect. Our guide directs me to the “wash room.” Following a small path for several hundred meters I reach a small lagoon in the middle of the forest. The lagoon is completely covered with green weeds and would have been easy to miss altogether. I undress and climb on a fallen tree stump which leads from the shore in the middle of the lagoon. Having reached the center I use a stick to push aside the weeds to create a space of open water. I then take an empty bean-can (serving as the water faucet) and pour the refreshingly cool chocolate color water over my body.

Before dinner we climb a Mayan ruin nearby towering tall above the jungle canopy and enjoy a picture perfect sunset. A delicious dinner awaits us upon descend and the evening is rounded up with a camp fire and listening to live guitar music (one of my fellow companions chose to carry his guitar all the way into the midst of the jungle).

The next day starts even earlier. We are up by 6am, have eaten and are ready to go by 7am. The road ahead is long: 8 hours of walking plus a 1 hour lunch break. So we arrive at 4pm after a beautiful but long walk at “El Mirador” the tallest pyramids build in the Mayan empire. There is something magical and uplifting about finally arriving at a place that took so much energy to reach.

We are all alone, not a tourist in sight. For obvious reasons the journey here is not everybody’s taste. But the trip was well worth it. A huge city of enormous proportions (including temples, pyramids, houses, squares and even highways) was once located here. Today the entire city is hidden by the jungle (only a tiny portion of the site has been excavated). After setting up camp, watching another breathtaking sunset and a delicious dinner we climb the pyramid “El Tigre” (with the guitar). A cool breeze in my hear, gentle guitar music in my ear and a beautiful view spoil my senses as we relax on top of this ancient Mayan pyramid far above the jungle.

The next day is our day of rest. We walk around the ancient walls of this city (over 2000 years old) admiring the many temples, walls and pyramids. After dinner everybody is tired and disappears into their hammock for the night. I however have different plans. Once more I want to enjoy the amazing experience of climbing the pyramid, but this time at night and alone. But in order to climb the pyramid you first have to find it, which is easier said than done in a pitch black forest. I stumble around some narrow paths somewhat intimidated by all the sounds surrounding me. Eventually I realize that I am on the wrong path and have to turn around. Finally I reach “El Tigre” after this night walk though the jungle, which was an adventure all by itself.

The long walk and tiring ascend all become worthwhile as I reach the top of the pyramid. I am greeted by a beautifully clear starry night. The moon gradually rises over the horizon and over the hours I watch it gradually descending again. The moon finally sets at about 1am and leaves behind one of the clearest and starriest nights I have ever seen. I can see the Milky Way and millions of stars scattered all over the sky and accompanying this picturesque view are the sounds of the jungle below. I decide to spend the night. The ground is rocky so my sleep is frequently interrupted, which is fine because the view is well worth it. I wake up in time to watch the sky turn from black to blue and then sun gradually rising over the horizon. A new day has begun and I return to the camp, just in time for breakfast. What a night!

We have a long walk back ahead of us. And so we spend another 2 days in the jungle, walking during the day and enjoining camp fires with live guitar music at night.

On day 6 we return to Carmelita. We are all tired, dirty and our bodies covered by mosquito bites but more importantly we are happy. We load up the truck and head back. On the way we stop by a farmer’s house and our guide buys a big (for Christmas he says) which is put into a bag and thrown on the back of the pick-up as well. So we make our way back through the pot-holes, the pig squeaking and jumping up periodically. Suddenly there is a strange noise from underneath the car – something had obviously broken. But no problem, the driver jumps out with a roll of wire and disappears under the car. 10 minutes later he reappears and declares the car as repaired. The trip resumes uninterrupted until we reach San Andrés and although San Andrés is tiny it feels like we are returning to the big city.

My Life in San Andrés

View all photos from San Andrés: http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0AcNmzVq5YsWLwg¬ag=1


Life starts early in San Andrés. The roosters start announcing the arrival of the new day around five o´ clock and the first children playing in the street do not follow far behind. My family, with whom I have been living for 2 weeks now, gets up around 6am and with Latin music playing it is hard to sleep past 7am. But that is OK because the nights are quiet and it is easy to go to bed early.

Every morning the first thing I do is to put on my shorts and go for a quick swim in Lake Petén Itzá only 20 meters away from my house, which has a beautifully located terrace overlooking the lake. I have always loved the water so I feel very fortunate to be able to go swimming whenever I want. Usually the swim in the lake also substitutes taking a shower (water is generally only available in the mornings and the water out of the pipe comes straight from the lake anyway). I do not have too much time to enjoy the beauty of the scenery in the mornings because breakfast is already waiting and I leave the house around 7:40 and climb the steep hill up towards the main road where my Spanish school is located.

Spanish class stars at 8am, that is I usually arrive around 8am, take a glass of water and have a seat in the open air classroom. The gentle breeze feels wonderful and quickly dries the fresh sweat (the steep ascend and high temperatures make sweating a permanent state). The teachers tend to show up casually around 8:15 or 8:30 and class begins. Usually the first hour is spent with conversation and then we gradually move to grammar. Time always races by when you are having fun and with the many jokes of my teacher it is hard not to. Class finishes around 12:00 (as casually as it began so not infrequently I stay until 12:15 or 12:30).

In the sizzling midday sunshine I make my way back home through town and down the hill towards the lake. Ariadna, the youngest of my 3 sisters, greets me as I enter the house, reggaeton music is playing and Ariadna is practicing some new dance moves. She is only 6 yeas old but already dances amazingly well. Immediately she pulls me toward her: “Dance with me,” she says with her mischievous smile, “or else you don’t get any lunch.” After a few minutes of dancing we have lunch. After resting in the hammock for a few minutes it is time to leave again. Making my way up the hill again (for some reason it always seems steeper during the midday sun) I am thinking about where to spend my afternoon working. I have joined a volunteer work program that offers several social projects for the improvement of the community. My favorite place to work is the park and there is lot so work to be done (protecting the park against forest fires, working in the botanical or medicinal garden, feeding the animals, helping with the production of several medicinal products or simply sneaking away for a stroll in the park). The other project I like working on is the construction of a library. The work is physical and hard (shoveling sand and concrete, laying bricks etc...) but has given me a unique experience. Most of my life I have worked with my head and have used my body only for leisurely exercise. Going forward I will look at people who work a whole day doing hard physical work with more appreciate eyes. I also am teaching English classes at a local school 3 times a week. I enjoy teaching a lot although the 15 year old students can be difficult to motivate.

I return home at about 5:30pm in time to jump into the lake and watch the sunset on my back swimming though the refreshing water. After a day of heat and sweat the fresh water is always a highlight. After dinner life starts to quiet down in San Andrés. From 7 to 9pm the library has open doors for children and I frequently go to play and chat with the children. Other days I stay at home and spend the evenings talking to my family (which I am convinced is the best family in all of San Andrés). Sometimes I just feel like being alone and visit the hammock in my room reading, writing or relaxing or take a walk along the side of the lake admiring the moon and millions of starts that the southern sky offer.

I go to sleep at night with a smile on my face. My life is good here, very good (I could easily see myself stay here for a long time). But more importantly I feel immersed in a new culture that is teaching me everyday how happy the people of San Andrés are despite living very simple lives (often fighting poverty and economic survival). In many ways I have found the people here much happier, friendlier and more sincere that the people in the much richer part of the world.

A day in the life of Maria

This is a true story:
The alarm clock rings. It is 5am. Maria immediately turns off the alarm not trying to wake her 2 year old daughter and sick mother all sleeping in the same room. She sneaks out of the room and starts her daily chores of work: She begins by washing some clothes in the sink outside the house by the outhouse. She turns on the water tap to fill the sink hoping that there will be water today. Despite the fact that she lives by a lake the water supply is only sporadic. But she is lucky this morning.

As the horizon is showing the first signs of light, she returns inside the house to iron yesterday’s laundry. She then gets dressed and starts preparing for her day, and she has a long one ahead of her. Hoping not to wake up her daughter’s fragile sleep she moves about the rooms very quietly. She knows that if her daughter was to wake up she would immediately run to hug her mother. Wanting to play would make leaving for work on time almost impossible. It always breaks Maria’s heart to leave as her little baby crying and begging her to stay so the only solution is to leave before she awakes.

Having studied at university as the only girl in her town her views of cultural norms were different form tradition. Two years ago when she found out that she was pregnant she took the courageous and unusual decision to move together with her new boyfriend rather than getting married. Shortly thereafter, the newborn adding to the stress, it became clear that the relationship was not healthy and mother and father were simply not getting along. She decided to leave. Despite having violated her family’s pleas of not getting married, her mother was willing to take her back in (her father had died in an accident a few years back). Back at her mother’s house she is able to live rent free (contributing with her paycheck to household expenses) and able to work a full day while grandma watches the baby.

However, for the last week her mom has been sick. Having to stay in bed, Maria was not able to got to work to earn her paycheck but rather spent her days talking her mother to the doctor and watching her daughter along with her younger brothers and sisters. Fortunately, her mother is feeling better so Maria is able to return to work this week.

Having finished her morning work Maria finally sits down at 7:15am to have some breakfast before having to lave for work (which starts at 8am). As she steps outside her house into the morning sun, she smiles: although she would have loved to hug and kiss her baby good bye, she knows that waking her always means tears upon departure. But the sun shines, reggaeton music is playing in the near by kiosk and most importantly she can go back to work to earn money.

Maria’s university grades were excellent which helped her get a job at a local private school, which pays a bit better than public schools (although the work load is also more demanding). This week is exam week and Maria stayed up late last night preparing her exams.

Essentially all teaching jobs in her town are half time (5 hours per day). Her job pays 2500 Quetzals per month (about 300 USD or 10 USD per day) not a lot of money. But she feels lucky. She earns a lot more than most people and more importantly her job is very safe. The school buildings are utilized all day long, some children prefer to attend the morning session, and others who have to work attend school in the afternoon. Arriving at school just before 8am (the local collectivo bus was on time today) she switches into her uniform (that students as well as teachers have to wear) and prepares for her first class. The day is filled with exams and time passes rapidly. Before she knows it, it is 1pm but the students like to stay a bit later and chat with her so by the time she reaches the comedor a few blocks away to have lunch it is already 1:30pm. She does not have much time because she is supposed to be at her second job by 2pm.

In the afternoons Maria works at the local language school teaching foreigners Spanish. She says she really likes this work because it give her the chance to meet people from different cultures, but the school only calls her when there are students and during the rainy season she can sometimes go without an assignment for months. Students pay the school 3USD per hour for a 1-on-1 instruction Spanish class but the school only pays her 2 USD per hour but every Quetzal counts when trying to make a living for her family.

Although Maria has finished her university she is still lacking an exam for an advanced language certificate. She says the exam is not difficult but would require about 1 month of preparation, time she currently does not have. For the past year she has been trying to save some money to pay for the exam fee and the books but has not been able to do so. “I was on track to save the money unit my daughter got sick and I had to spend all my savings on medical bills, “ says Maria and confidently adds, “I am sure soon I will have the money together.”

One of the most amazing things about Maria is how happy she is given her situation and I trying to contemplate if this is because many of her peers are in even worse financial situations or is it because she has a naturally happy personally and nothing can spoil her day. But if you asked Maria about her life she would not lose too many bad words. Smilingly she explains that she has everything she needs for a happy life: good health, a loving family and a job she enjoys. There is really no reason to complain. Sure the financial situation is tight and her daughter’s father has never helped her financially, but “somehow things always work out,” she adds.

After finishing her language classes at 6pm she takes the bus back to her town 15 minutes away and stops by the store to buy some groceries for dinner. As Maria finally steps though the entrance of her home her daughter already awaits here. The two hug for the first time that day. But Maria does not have too much time to spend with her daughter because she has to help with the dinner preparation. After everybody has eaten and she has brought her daughter to bed, Maria returns to the kitchen table once more to grade the exams and prepare for the next day. At 11pm her tired body finally is able to lie down. Mother and daughter fall asleep united, hugging each other and although both are sleeping, Maria is happy that they are able to spend time together, at last.

San Andrés, Guatemala

For most people Central America is a spot on the map, about which they do not know all that much (also one of the reasons I decided to come here). Within the region, Guatemala is one of the more secluded and less touristy counties. Within Guatemala the northeast is one of the most remote areas (furthest away from the capital). If all this was not enough, I still had the desire to get further away from Western and touristy influences. I wanted to see and live the real Guatemala (I wanted to see with different eyes).

The overcrowded minibus (the main method of transportation, only few people own a car) crawls along the road. The paved highway is long behind us and the minibus zigzags along the gravel road trying to avoid the frequent pot-holes. Finally a few houses appear. “This has to be San Andrés,” I think to myself, “let me wait until we reach something that looks like the city center and I will get off.” But the center never arrived. A few blocks later the housed were starting to look suspiciously sporadic again. I decided to ask where San Andrés center is and am told that we already passed it.

Another sign of the remoteness of this village is that there are neither street names nor house numbers. They are not necessary because everybody knows everybody. Simply name of person and town suffice for the local mailman.

San Andrés is located right by Lake Petén Itzá and there is a steep decline from the “center” of town down to the lake. Many small windy paths make their way throughout the town frequently intersecting, sometimes terminating in a dead end. The first day it all seemed like a labyrinth but after a few days I start feeling like I know every corner.

The rhythm of life in San Andrés can only be described as quiet, friendly and relaxed (tranquilo). The one bigger restaurant and bar closes at 10pm every night. People prefer to spend the evenings with their families. As you walk though the streets you see people swinging in the hammocks (most people always have their door open so they can greet people as they walk by). One of the side effects of this traditional family oriented life style is that the historic gender roles continue to be very strictly defined. Most people marry in the late teens or early 20s and start producing children right away; the average family has 6 or 7 children, one of my neighbors has 18 (yes, all form the same woman). The man is the one who works, earns the money and makes all the decisions, the woman is in charge of raising the children, cooking, cleaning and washing. I have met a few exceptions (independent educated women) but they are by far the minority.

With family sizes of 7 it is of little surprise that children comprise the majority of the population. They are everywhere, one cuter than the other: playing in the streets from 5am in the morning until the night, coming and returning from school (in their school uniforms). I have fallen in love with the children of this town: their personalities are so playful, smiling, Latino-warm-blooded, affectionate and very social.

No description of San Andrés would be complete without mentioning the animals, and there are many. In fact I am not sure if there are more dogs or people living here. Some dogs looks well fed and definitely have a home, other look like they are having a “bad hair day” and have to survive by going though people’s garbage. But there is more: there are horses and donkeys (which tend to be fenced in); pigs and chickens (which tend not to be fenced in and roam freely around town – one time a pig wondered into our living room). The proximity to the jungle brings many beautiful birds and butterflies but also snakes and tarantulas. People and animals, it almost seems like one big family.

Life here is so very different to what I am used to but I have to say that I have not felt as comfortable in a place as San Andrés for a very long time. The mix of people’s warmth and intimacy, the relaxing atmosphere, the beautiful location by the lake, the warm climate, delicious food and the feeling of being welcome have truly captured my heart.

Selfless Service

Having spent the last years of my life in a materialistic country pursing materialistic goals it is very refreshing to get a different perspective. I hope you find this story equally inspiring:

The better part of my life has been spent doing things largely for my benefit. So I decided it was time for a new experience: volunteering, offering selfless service for the benefit of others. After some research (and some “lucky coincidences”) I come across a volunteer program in the tiny town of San Andrés in northern Guatemala.

After a dusty 30 minute dusty bus ride in the overcrowded collectivo (a.k.a. chicken bus), I arrive in San Andrés. The sun is so hot that it seems to burn everything in sight. I exit the bus and wonder down the street as a western looking man extends his hand to greet me, introducing himself at Mateo, and asks (in English) if he could help me. I respond (in Spanish) that I was looking for the Volunteer Peten organization. He smiles and says: “That is me.” (This time and from now on in Spanish). He knocks on the door of a house nearby, introduces me to the owner and tells me that I could safely leave my things here while he shows me around.

As we start walking past the library, a volunteer project of his, he explains to me the essence of his program: volunteers come here to help with infrastructure and educations programs. For a fee of 75 USD per week participants are placed in local host families (only one volunteer per family) where they receive 3 meals per day. During the day they are free to choose between any of the ongoing programs: the construction of a library for the children of this village, the improvement and maintenance of a city park, helping to make medicinal lotions and shampoos using plants growing in the botanic garden, teaching (generally English) at the local schools or simply playing with the children in an evening activity program.

As we walk down the street every now and then Mateo points to a building: “we built this addition to the school” or “we built this bus stop for the people so they no longer have to wait in the sun or rain.” As he shows me these accomplishments a subtle smile crosses his face.

We arrive at the library and he proceeds to check on the construction work from the past day, satisfied he then makes plans for what to do the next day. 15 minutes later he is finished and we continue our walk. He tells me that the town currently only has a small library (about 15 square meters) hardly big enough to hold 30 children (not much space considering the town’s population of about 2000 children). His book donation efforts are beginning to bear fruit and he is simply out of space so he decided to build a new library. He is happy with the progress and hopes to be finished in 2 months.

We walk by a school. As we enter the courtyard children run up to us and greet him (by name). A fellow volunteer is teaching English as we approach. Mateo tells me that he (and his volunteers) built a big piece of this school. He has maintained good relations so his volunteers are always welcome to teach English (an offer I would later make use of).

As we continue our walk, the sun by now has become a bit less hostile, I ask him to share his story: it all began 6 years ago. Mateo, a U.S. citizen, entered the peace corpse for 2 years and was sent to Flores, Guatemala. Deciding he preferred to live in small town he moved to San Andrés daily commuting back and forth from Flores. He summarized his peace corpse experience by saying that he was frustrated by the never-ending bureaucracy. Nothing ever seemed to get done and so much energy was wasted. When the 2 years were over, instead of returning home he asked the town San Andrés, which he had come to love by then, if he could stay to work on social projects.

He started by painting many of the ugly grey walls of public buildings (paint is frequently a luxury that is not part of a tight building budget). He then became aware of a large abandoned piece of land at the outskirts of town (an abandoned lumber company). He successfully petitioned the city council to make hem the custodian of the land and has since turned the piece of abandoned jungle into a beautiful park. He says: “in the first years it was difficult to get volunteers because no one knew about San Andrés.” But the world continues to spread and every year a larger number of volunteers arrives (this year he has an average of about 15 – 20 volunteers at a time who stay anything from 1 week to 1 year). He proudly explains that all this is self-funding through the volunteers and he does not have to ask anybody for money (volunteers pay a fee of 75 USD per week, half of which goes to the host family and the other half is used to fund the social projects).

We finally reach the park and the trees provide a welcome refuge from the sun. The volunteers are busy preparing the park for the forest fire season. By now I am confident that I have come to right place not only to get a deeper insight into Guatemalan culture but more to contribute to something beautiful.

Mateo smiles as he shows me around the park. He has accomplished so much (so selflessly) is such a short period of time. I ask him how much longer he wants to stay. “The work has just begun,” is his answer. A butterfly happily dances in font of my face, just as happy as the children paying in the library. Development work so subtle, so beautiful, so impactful!

Here is web site for anybody interested: http://www.volunteerpeten.com

Tikal, Guatemala

View all photos from Tikal: http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0AcNmzVq5YsWLtQ


I have to admit that I am not the most historically interested person. And so when it comes to visiting ruins I am not the person that has to see every stone or every ruin along the way.

Tikal is different and well worth every minute. Most importantly, there are no people. Well, here and there you can spot a tourist but the experience was nothing compared to more easily accessible destinations like Chichen Itza (México) or Giza (Egypt). And it is amazing what difference the absence of people makes. Tikal still feels like a sanctuary, a remote place hidden in the jungle far away from civilization.

In this unique setting you can admire some of the biggest and best restored ruins of this Mayan empire. But besides the breathtaking views from below and on top of the pyramids there is beautiful wildlife and nature to be seen: colorful butterfly and birds, monkeys and crocodiles just to name a few, blended into a bed of green filled with palm trees and flowers displaying the breathtaking creativity of nature.

The Road to Tikal

The town of San Andrés in which I am currently staying is only about 70 kilometers away from Tikal, the most famous Mayan ruins in Guatemala. Eager to see this highlight I decided to take a road tip:

Arriving in Flores (the next biggest city and regional center) many hotels and travel agencies are heavily advertising a shuttle bus to Tikal leaving Flores every hour (round trip tickets cost 50 Quetzals or about 7 USD). Being the savvy traveler that I am (and always happy to avoid the tourists) I know that travel agencies like to take a hefty surcharge and the price of 50 Quetzals seemed disproportionally high in comparison with other bus fares anyway.

So I decide to walk to the local bus terminal to take the collectivo (a.k.a. chicken bus that stops on every corner). After making my way though the market and the maze of collectivos parked there (gong to every little village close by), I finally found a minibus going to Tikal leaving in just a few minutes. Perfect!

The first sign of good things to come was that the conductor (usually a boy yelling out the destination of the bus) could not tell me how much the ticket was. However he promised that the driver would be there in a minute to answer my question. 40 minutes later (at 2:30pm vs. the scheduled departure of 2pm) the driver was still nowhere to be seen. I realized that I had just missed the last travel agency shuttle bus and was told that there would also be no further collectivos until the next day. In other words, this minibus was my only way to Tikal that day. By this time that conductor had done a superb job of filling the 4 row minibus with about 20 people – all waiting patiently for the driver. Another 20 minutes later the hero of the hour patiently exits a nearby restaurant and approaches the bus. Before departing, of course the driver has to greet his colleagues in other minibuses nearby exchanging the daily news. By the time we finally leave it is almost 3pm.

The driver turns around to greet his passengers and it is impossible to miss that he only has 1 eye (well, the second one was practically shut, helplessly pointing toward the far left. “I have seen worse things,” I think to myself, just before the bus turns into a mechanic shop. I breathe a sigh of relief as the driver only reaches for the air pump to re-inflate the tires. Another 10 minutes later we are on the road again. But wait; before the trip could begin we have to stop by the gas station to fuel up. Another 10 minutes later we resume the trip but shortly thereafter the bus comes to a stop at the exact spot were the journey began: “I promised a friend that I would take him,” explains the driver calmly,” but I just cannot find him.” He gets off the bus and walks around the vicinity looking for his friend (with his 1 eye). 10 minutes later he returns (his friend is obviously slightly delayed since it is now 4pm versus the 2pm scheduled departure – coincidentally this was only supposed to be a 1 ½ hour trip, which means that the over-priced travel agency bus has already arrived in Tikal while I was still waiting for my one-eyed bus driver’s elusive friend 2 hours later in 35 degree centigrade (95 F) heat).

But at last the journey begins and we promptly arrive without any other notable complications. 1:45 hours later we finally reach Tikal (these collectivos have the habit of stopping every few kilometers to let passengers enter and exit the bus on demand, which slows down the trip somewhat).

After unloading our backpacks the one-eyed friend asks for payment of 30 Quetzals, which is more that half of the roundtrip for of 50 the travel agency was offering. After even the locals pay this bill I realize that my attempts to negotiate a discount are in vain. Moreover, I realize that my savvyness has just cost me over 2 hours and more money on top of that. But I like to look at it differently: without having taken the local transportation I would not have received this charming reminder of how things operate in Latin America. More importantly, I would not have experienced the amazing attitude and patience the people of this country exhibit. Not one time did I hear a moan or complaint for anybody; instead this 4 hour trip (without air conditioning) was marked by a relaxing cheerful atmosphere.

And so I walk away smiling as well, thankful for the experience and still in time to watch the sun set over the majestic ruins of Tikal.