San Andrés, Guatemala

For most people Central America is a spot on the map, about which they do not know all that much (also one of the reasons I decided to come here). Within the region, Guatemala is one of the more secluded and less touristy counties. Within Guatemala the northeast is one of the most remote areas (furthest away from the capital). If all this was not enough, I still had the desire to get further away from Western and touristy influences. I wanted to see and live the real Guatemala (I wanted to see with different eyes).

The overcrowded minibus (the main method of transportation, only few people own a car) crawls along the road. The paved highway is long behind us and the minibus zigzags along the gravel road trying to avoid the frequent pot-holes. Finally a few houses appear. “This has to be San Andrés,” I think to myself, “let me wait until we reach something that looks like the city center and I will get off.” But the center never arrived. A few blocks later the housed were starting to look suspiciously sporadic again. I decided to ask where San Andrés center is and am told that we already passed it.

Another sign of the remoteness of this village is that there are neither street names nor house numbers. They are not necessary because everybody knows everybody. Simply name of person and town suffice for the local mailman.

San Andrés is located right by Lake Petén Itzá and there is a steep decline from the “center” of town down to the lake. Many small windy paths make their way throughout the town frequently intersecting, sometimes terminating in a dead end. The first day it all seemed like a labyrinth but after a few days I start feeling like I know every corner.

The rhythm of life in San Andrés can only be described as quiet, friendly and relaxed (tranquilo). The one bigger restaurant and bar closes at 10pm every night. People prefer to spend the evenings with their families. As you walk though the streets you see people swinging in the hammocks (most people always have their door open so they can greet people as they walk by). One of the side effects of this traditional family oriented life style is that the historic gender roles continue to be very strictly defined. Most people marry in the late teens or early 20s and start producing children right away; the average family has 6 or 7 children, one of my neighbors has 18 (yes, all form the same woman). The man is the one who works, earns the money and makes all the decisions, the woman is in charge of raising the children, cooking, cleaning and washing. I have met a few exceptions (independent educated women) but they are by far the minority.

With family sizes of 7 it is of little surprise that children comprise the majority of the population. They are everywhere, one cuter than the other: playing in the streets from 5am in the morning until the night, coming and returning from school (in their school uniforms). I have fallen in love with the children of this town: their personalities are so playful, smiling, Latino-warm-blooded, affectionate and very social.

No description of San Andrés would be complete without mentioning the animals, and there are many. In fact I am not sure if there are more dogs or people living here. Some dogs looks well fed and definitely have a home, other look like they are having a “bad hair day” and have to survive by going though people’s garbage. But there is more: there are horses and donkeys (which tend to be fenced in); pigs and chickens (which tend not to be fenced in and roam freely around town – one time a pig wondered into our living room). The proximity to the jungle brings many beautiful birds and butterflies but also snakes and tarantulas. People and animals, it almost seems like one big family.

Life here is so very different to what I am used to but I have to say that I have not felt as comfortable in a place as San Andrés for a very long time. The mix of people’s warmth and intimacy, the relaxing atmosphere, the beautiful location by the lake, the warm climate, delicious food and the feeling of being welcome have truly captured my heart.