Adeus Brazil

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This past month in Brazil has been distinct from prior travels (yes, I have sold my motorcycle and have returned to backpacking), but I no longer traveled alone – my sister Julia joined me and Brazil is home to a different language (Portuguese) from the remainder of Spanish speaking Latin America.

I entered Brazil at the thundering waterfalls of Iguazu, then met up with Julia in the city of never-ending skyscrapers, Sao Paulo. From there we ventured north along the Atlantic coast stopping in Paraty with its beautiful historic downtown and its wealth of islands and beaches that surround it. Further north, we escaped to the natural paradise of Ilha Grande enjoying sunshine, beaches and most of all tranquility. The rest was needed because Rio de Janeiro, a city that does not sleep requires lots of energy, with a never-ending list of things to do, Rio de Janeiro is a city where I easily could have stayed much longer. Salvador de Bahia was the next stop and almost seemed like a different country: nested in African culture it is soaked in typical cuisine, dress, dance, capoeira and music. My final days in Brazil were spent once again in tranquility in the small town of Imbassai 70km north of Salvador, enjoying endless virgin beaches and the fantastic hospitality of Bahia. Back in Sao Paul, Julia and I would part ways. After a beautiful time together that once again brought us closer in hearts, it was difficult to say good-bye. Following a month of subtle suggestions, Julia had decided to postpone her job search in favor of traveling longer – what a fantastic decision.

Leaving Brazil, it seems appropriate to quote Paulo Coelho in that “the universe always conspires in favor of those that follow their dreams.” With that promise in mind I quit my job 1 ½ years ago looking for more in life than an artificially illuminated office and a daily routine that draws its energy from the weekends. 1 ½ years later I am overwhelmed by the beauty of life manifesting itself in its infinite forms and know that there is no other way than to follow your heart. And so fortune had it, that I boarded an airplane hoping that my time ahead would be as amazing, inspiring, thought provoking, adventurous, educational, and most of all happy as the past 1 ½ years of living a dream I still cannot believe became reality.

Brazil: Country of Diversity

If you thought the USA was a melting pot, please come to Brazil. The country is one eccentric mix of races from all continents: mostly African, lots of Europeans but also native American and Asians. It is almost impossible to perceive a face that could not be Brazilian. Although over the centuries the various races have mixed and today manifest themselves in all shapes and colors, unfortunately social integration has progressed rather slowly. Yes, the days of slavery are over (well, in most places, but that is a topic for a different discussion), but the class structure based on ethnic background remains almost perfectly in tact. Sadly, the state with the most blacks (Bahia) is also the poorest and offers the worst education and public health.

Although it has the largest back population of any country outside of Africa (roughly 50% of its 200 million population is back), Brazil likes to portray itself as a white country (good luck finding a colored person on TV, in politics or in top management). The country continues to be run by whites, like 500 years ago. There are clever schemes in place (or racist, depending on your perspective) to keep it that way. Take education for instance: most Brazilians will agree that primary public education is poor, so those with money send their children to private schools. Public universities, on the other hand, are excellent but an entrance exam is required; logically largely high scoring white from private schools pass the tough hurdle.

Brazil is a country extremely rich in resources: natural and human, but to progress to a modern country it has to face its legacy of racism and confront burning issues like: poor public education, public health, unequal opportunities and prevalent violence.

“Tudo Bem” or “Everything OK”

In Brazil everything is “tudo bem.“ It is question and answer both in one. “Tudo bem?” “Tudo bem!” At first it appears as a superficial exchange of words without much significance because a person would never respond to the question “tudo bem?” with “I am having a difficult day” or “well, actually I suffer from depression.” No, the only way to respond is: “tudo bem!” But upon deeper observation I found that “tudo bem!” is a reflection of a culture that wants to be happy and is looking for any reason to be. “I just lost my job, but I still have enough money for the next week – tudo bem.” “I broke my leg, but the sun is shining – tudo bem.” “My girlfriend left me, but I am playing football on the beach with my friends – tudo bem.” “Woops, I got pregnant by accident, but Carnival is around the corner – tudo bem.” “I have no more money, but my friends are inviting me for drinks – tudo bem.” The celebration of life and the embracing of happiness is something genuinely Brazilian. The Brazilian wants to laugh and be happy and even when life is tough (poverty, joblessness, lack of education , violence, discrimination are very prevalent) surrounds them, they will still find a reason to smile and proclaim “tudo bem.” One philosopher along the way told me that despite extreme poverty and unequal distribution of wealth, a revolution in Brazil would be impossible because the people of this country are simply too happy (even the poorest) to rebel and life is deemed too precious to sacrifice it for “superficial” things like social justice. By the way, the same person also hypothesized that cheap alcohol, football and Carnival were drugs given to the poor by the elite to keep them happy. I think, even without these, the Brazilians would find a way to be happy and express their joy for life. When you think about it, everything in life is relative and subject to your perspective. So why not see the glass with just a few drops remaining as “almost” full. After all reality is whatever you perceive it to be. “Tudo bem?”

Thumbs Up, Brazil

Nowhere in my travels have I encountered a gesture as omnipresent as the “thumbs up” in Brazil. I imagine it would (almost) be possible to travel the country only communicating via “thumbs up.” “Good morning” – why bother moving you lips - “thumbs up” does it. “How are you?” - of course you raise your thumb waiting for the response, which predictably will be a “thumbs up.” “Don’t worry about it,” “everything is OK,” “take it easy,” “I will buy it,” “I like you,” “I am happy,” “we are friends,” or simply “OK,” all of these messages can be communicated easily in Brazil with the magical “thumbs up.” I am convinced that “thumbs up” even saved me from trouble. At night walking down a dark street and approaching some even darker figures hanging out in the ally, I confidently gave them the “thumbs up”; they had no choice but to respond in kind and grant me safe passage.

My 30th Birthday

I spend my 30th Birthday in Imbassai, Brazil and could not have wished for a better place or company. I opened my eyes to a heart-warming birthday song from Julia, followed by breakfast on a flower-decorated table. It turns out that the only other couple at the hostel was also celebrating a birthday. After a beautiful day on the beach, I returned to the hostel as the other birthday couple was greeting arriving friends and was preparing a birthday party. Given Brazilan friendliness, Julia and I were immediately invited. Sharing dinner, drinks and delicious cake (as well as some surprise phone calls from loved ones) I spent very happy hours among new friends. Being so far away form home it was wonderful spending this day with my sister, a person I have known all my life. In that sense it was a great mixture of family and familiarity on one side and Brazilian friendliness and fiesta on the other.

Imbassai, Brazil

Julia (my sister) and I decided that the final days in Brazil should be spent in tranquility. What better place could we have chosen than the endless beaches of Bahia? About 65km (2 hours) north of Salvador we found the town of Imbassai. The beach is a dream: in either direction endless miles of empty sandy beaches (and I mean literally empty) lined with coconut palm trees. Here you can find all the peace in the world among waves, sand palms and sunshine. We spent our days relaxing in the hammock of our hostel, strolling along the breach, playing in the waves, doing yoga on the beach or spending time with our lovely hostel owners.

Salvador de Bahia, Brazil

Humidity filled the air and a few sweat drops my forehead, yet it was only 7am as Julia and I made our way from the bus stop to the hostel. The beauty of the historic district Pelourinho was immediately apparent: Colonial houses, churches and spares built by the Portugues during a time when Salvador was still the capital of the colony. Since then much has changed: millions of slaves have arrived (involuntarily), Brazil accomplished its independence (peacefully) and the capital has been moved twice (first to Rio de Janeiro in 1763 then to Brasilia in 1960).

Today Salvador is the capital of the state of Bahia, arguably one of the poorer regions of Brazil. Its population consists of 85% blacks and unfortunately the black population continues to be neglected: public education and public health is terrible while the power, land and businesses remain in the hands of a few whites (who at times employ methods not far removed from those during the days of slavery to multiply their wealth). This however is not very visible to the visitor’s eyes. What is visible is the strong African influence: music is the air everywhere and the festive and joyful spirit of the people is striking. I was lucky enough to visit Salvador on the Day of Dance (all day the plazas were filled with drums, singing and dancing), but on all the other days music and dance seemed similarly prevalent. In other words, the rhythm of music and dance flows in the blood of the people of Salvador. Bahia, Brazil is also the historical cradle of Capoeira (the Brazilian martial art consisting of music, chanting, singing and amazing body control and mind-blowing moves). I had seen several displays of Capoeira previously but nothing remotely close to the quality of Salvadorian Capoeira. I am not surprised that Salvador is supposed to host the best carnival in the world, the energy here is so full of thirst for life and its pleasures; its people amerce themselves fully and more then willingly. It really seemed to me that the people of Salvador live life as if every day was their last day.

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Granted, my first impression of Rio de Janeiro was a bit intimidating. Similar to Sao Paulo, the way to the Rio de Janeiro bus terminal led past an endless sea of houses traffic and slums (favelas). I feared that what laid ahead would be an over-bearing experience. Fortunately, first impressions can be very deceiving.

We found a super laid back hostel with great location (4 blocks from the beach) in Ipanema (one of the safer and more upscale neighborhoods of Rio de Janeiro). I immediately felt comfortable at the hostel and would do so during my entire stay (our private room at the hostel beat sharing a dormitory with 8 snoring guys, breakfast was open end, no ckeck out time and a very chilled out vibe).

We had planned well because we arrived in Rio de Janeiro on a Friday afternoon, just in time for the weekend. The nightlife in Rio de Janeiro is spectacular and unlike other cities is available to everybody (not just the rich able to afford a 20USD cover charge). Rio’s nights feature fun street parties almost on a daily basis. During the other nights there are public concerts, beach parties or dances free to the public. One could easily go out every night without entering into a single establishment. Then of course there are innumerable bars, lounges, night club and discos.

But the days in Rio de Janeiro are fun as well. For starters the city is wrapped by endless beaches filled by sunbathers, beach volleyball, football, runners, swimmers and omnipresent venders.

Rio de Janeiro’s many stunning rock hills peaking into the sky not only make for easy landmarks but offer spectacular views over the entire bay. The two most famous hills are Corcovado (710 meters elevation) and Sugarloaf (400 meters elevation).

Rio’s population is as diverse and colorful as its various neighborhoods (Ipanema, Copacobana, Lapa, Flamenco, Centro, Santa Teresa, Botafogo etc.). Best explored walking each part will give you a very distinct impression the city.

Definitely the best aspect about Rio de Janeiro is its people: fun loving, open, friendly, helpful, easy going, singing & dancing and seemingly always in a good mood.

Ilha Grande, Brazil

The 1 ½ hour ferry ride from Angra dos Reis to Ilha Grande was the first indicator that we were headed to a laid back place. I crossed over the “Personnel Only” chain climbing up the stairs of the ferry up to the captain’s bridge. Dressed in a stained “wife beater” (sleeveless shirt), the captain greeted me with a smile and explained that I was headed to paradise. The dangers and rush of the mainland had been left behind and life was described as filled with peace, palms and pleasure in other words paradise.

The captain did not over-promise. Ilha Grande is a nature reserve prohibiting large hotel constructions and cars on the island. There is one small settlement on all of the Ilha Grande surrounded by unspoiled nature and virgin beaches. Here we spent 4 days exploring the island, swimming, snorkeling walking through the jungle and relaxing.

Two experiences deserve further mention:
1) Paulo’s caipirinha stand, which was as improvised as the cardboard handwritten sigh alerting the by-passer to its presence. On the side of his garden fence Paulo had instituted a small kiosk consisting of a bottle of cachaca and lemon. The idea was brilliantly simple: instead of drinking at a bar why not have your friends over to your place, drink for free, have a good time in the process and sell an occasional glass to a tourist.
2) The dessert wheel barrel: in shiny glass wheel barrels, dessert salesmen would walk the streets of Ilha Grande at night. The desserts were truly spectacular: fruit and chocolate cakes of impressive proportions and amazing flavor. Needless to say a visit to the desert wheel barrel quickly became part of our evening routine.

Paraty, Brazil

In an old colonial fisher village the counsel of the wise (a.k.a. the fisher men) eventually figured out that there was a lot more money to be earned by fixing up their town and selling boat tours to tourists than going fishing. So the fishermen cast their nets in a new direction and went to work to renovate their beautiful historic center filled with colonial buildings. The new fishermen’s trap has worked. Paraty has since become one of the tourist highlights of the region. The quaint cobblestone streets are filled with amazingly beautiful houses and churches and live Brazilian guitar music is floating through the air. Tourists eager to wine and dine have arrived taking a stroll, buy local jewelry, arts and crafts or book a scenic our to the spectacular beaches located on the islands along the bay.

Sao Paulo, Brazil

The 15 hour night bus arrived more or less on time at the Sao Paulo bus terminal. Without ever having exited the bus I could tell the city was enormous (one of the biggest in the world) and that the city would have an overwhelming impact on me. For two hours the bus had been crawling through the crowded streets past an endless sea of houses and streets. Thanks to the help of my friend Luciana I located a nice and friendly hostel in a (relatively) safe neighborhood. The rest of the day passed quickly amidst a tour of Avenia Paulista (Sao Paulo’s most famous street and home to upscale homes, stores and offices), making preparations for my sister’s arrival the following day and having some caipirinhas (certainly not the last ones). The night was short because I had to leave the hostel at 5am to be at the airport for Julia’s 7am arrival. Slipping through light traffic, things worked smoothly and before I knew it I held Julia in my arms, for the fist time in almost on year. From then on time seemed to fly by because we had a thousand things to catch up on. It did not matter that the way back almost took 3 hours during rush hour traffic.

We spent another 2 days in Sao Paulo exploring the city center and its tourist highlights as well as enjoying the nightlife with some new made friends. Initial attempts to plan our month together in Brazil were somewhat inconclusive so we decided to take things slow and head northward up the coast while contemplating how to spend the remainder of our time. After only having planed at the most one day in advance for the past year, planning a whole month at once must have been a bit too much.

Similar to prior visits to locations that supposedly were very dangerous (e.g. Nicaragua and Colombia), Sao Paulo struck me as much safer than I had expected and certainly than it was made out to be. Without any suspicious encounter we were able to navigate via trains, buses, walk the squares and streets and enjoy the nightlife: an auspicious start to a new country.