Viñales: Reflections and Anecdotes

Rarely have I been to a town where the people seem as happy as in Viñales. Certainly this could be a premature judgment because one week is hardly enough to fully understand the dynamics of a place and the people with whom I had contact was a limited sample. Nevertheless, I can only describe Viñales as a little paradise in the sense that despite poverty people live a happy and content life, rejoicing in the simple pleasures in life like music, dancing and rum, enjoying vast amounts of free time (in and outside of work – I have yet to meet a Cuban that seems to be stressed) and living in a physically beautiful location.

I am still trying to comprehend how a society or the town of Viñales in this case can sustain itself with so few people seeming to work. I do not mean that in a derogative way at all, rather in fascination because this village seems to have figured out how to maximize free time (and make the most of it) while satisfying all basic needs (housing, food, education, healthcare and rum).

Although it remains a point of contention between Cuba and Puerto Rico, Cuba claims to be the cradle of Salsa music, which evolved from traditional Son music. After only 2 weeks in Cuba it is evident that Salsa lives in the hearts of these people. The passion with which they play, sing and dance is breathtaking. How effortlessly their bodies move to the sound of music never losing its rhythm and yet playful, graceful and sexy. Having rediscovered my passion for dancing, I decided I better brush up on my skills with a few salsa lessons. The owner of the house where I am staying introduces me to a local professional dancer who happily agrees to teach me. Besides being a great dancer, Alberto is also very funny and socialable and smilingly agrees to stick around after Salsa class for a chat when I mention the bottle of rum in my backpack. Towards the end of the conversation he pulls out a few photos showing him performing at a show in Las Vegas and another picture of him next to Julia Roberts. He proudly describes his visit to the USA (the vast majority of Cubans has never traveled) where he was invited to perform in Las Vegas and give a private show to Julia Roberts. Listening to his story made me feel like the film “Buena Vista Social Club” where long forgotten musical geniuses are rediscovered. Likewise I feel that Alfredo, who undoubtedly is an excellent dancer, now lives a simple life in the small village of Viñales. Maybe one day a “Buena Vista Salsa Club” will discover this hidden pearl, one of so many that walk the streets of everyday Cuba.