El Malecón

For me the Habana Malecón has become a magical place where everything can happen. During the day this ocean side walk is home to fishermen and pedestrians, children playing in the ocean and tourists taking pictures, but with sunset the Malecón fills with people of all ages and colors and with every passing hour the mood seems to brighten. You are guaranteed a good night just walking along the ocean (a bottle of rum in one hand to uplift the spirits) or just to sitting down watching other people passing by. I have been amazed at the type of people one can meet here, their openness and friendliness: Everyday Cubans, always happy to invite you for a drink and sharing never ending stories about the many things that can only happen in Cuba. Of course there are the ubiquitous salesmen and tourist hustlers but if you tell them you do not want anything they either leave you alone or quickly forget their financial interest and stick around for some stories or a cup of rum.

One night, admittedly it was a late one, I was sitting on the Malecón conversing and sharing drinks with some Cubans when two musicians walk along and ask if we want them to play for us. We tell them we have no money but a friendly exchange of words changes their mind and so the music stars. There is nothing like feeling the ocean breeze in your hair, the moon shining from above, the crashing of waves in the background and live Cuban guitar music energizing the night. 30 minutes later, the musicians seemed to have forgotten that they were out to make money, two more musicians walk along with African drums in their hands. Without asking they stop and join the song and gradually the rhythm changes from a gentle guitar serenade to upbeat dancing music. And so we follow the call of the music and dance the night away.